first

any possibility of an aluminum axle with 14mm bolts?

It would be too weak to sustain a 14mm bolt using aluminum. That's where the Ti axle comes into play...

Any possible option for a spoke guard? that would slide on the non-drive side, instead of the spacer shown above, in the second picture. something like the shadow hub, but with a taper that drops faster and ends half the distance to the dropout?

Whats' wrong with a Gland III ?

will the roller bearing in the cassette be fast. or will it create more rolling resistance? The hub looks amazing by the way, so solidly designed.

yo, any chances of going under 10t?

i ride 25/8 for clearance yo

the bolts are hollow, so prob no need for aluminium or even ti.
i hope he makes an 11t tbh, though i would drop to 10t if its the only option...

You kids are tooooo concerned with stupid shit.

This hub is designed to be super high quality, not nit pick about grams so it's the lightest on the market.

Can't wait to get one to match my Marmoset. Great job G.

how much do you reckon the Ti axle upgrade will set you back?

guard is one fo jersey to sort out, jersey barriers fo the rear???

please make a matching hubguard.

You say some axles have a gentle bend to match a crooked frame. So I'm thinkin'..... if I use the "ratchet" on my old 250s with a slightly bent rear end, will the rear end of my frame straighten out automatically to match the straight "Ratchet"?

How long does it take to engage forward and backwards? (I know its not a freecoaster)

Will you change the look of the collars on existing hubs to match the collars on this hub?

left hand drive?

how many engament sections(?) are there on the rachet itself?

There are 24 engagement points. That works out to a maximum "slack" of 15degrees. However, as with any ratchet mechanism, it is random where you start from, so on average, there will be 7.5 degrees of "slack". With a typical 28/10 ratio, this translates to 2.7degrees at the crank (average). Full range is between Zero and 5.4 degrees... either way this is not much at all.

10 tooth is the smallest driver planned. Fitting a strong bearing between the axle and driver is the prime concern, so smaller sizes will only be done IF it can be done without compromising this aspect.

9 tooth MAY eventually be OK, 8 tooth is very very unlikely.

14mm bolted aluminium axles are unlikely, the weight saving over titanium would be marginal.

No idea on price of titanium options, prices on titanium vary daily so it would be pointless to speculate.
As with ANY titanium part, if price is a big consideration then it is probably going to be too expensive.

No plans for a "matching hub guard", doubtless there will be aftermarket ones from other companies eventually. My philosophy is to use the inherant strength of the wheel to support a light-weight guard (the GLAND III) without compromising the axle set-up. The GLAND III will fit obviously.

The collars on this hub are steel, so they can be a little less chunky than the collars on the Marmoset and Monkey front hubs, which are aluminium. There are no plans to change those hubs to match this "look". The collars on the titanium and aluminium 3/8" will be in proportion to the requirements of the material with respect to the loads...

Yes, using this axle system on distorted frames and dropouts does help pull them back into line a little.

Yes, left hand drive is possible, the hub is left/right switchable.

daniil if you took 10 seconds to read what the nice man has wrote it is compatible for both sides. Read first Ask second.

i'd like to see you make a really good freecoaster hub. no fucking joke. all the freecoaster hubs out there now still suck

please make a nine tooth driver, i know u said it "may" happen, but i would be awesome if it actually "happened"!!!

lhd??

are the flanges equal diameters? and can you explain why three is the optimum? and are the bearings in the driver the same for all the drivers or do the bearing get larger the larger tooth driver you have? and can i have a vague price the it may be sold for in the UK?

oh and one more does the axle form the driver bearing race?

Yo G. Have you ever looked into ceramic bearings? they are supposedly stronger and faster. just thought id throw it out there! I'd pay the extra $ for the speed.

so, just curious.. does this hub make a different sound than a normal cassette hub?

the term cassette comes from the splined body the cog slips over onto the driver and secures with a lockring,which shimano created all the way back to the early 80's. now that all drivers are one part, the term cassette does not really apply anymore.... clever name for a modern hub.

the bolts are hollow?

yes the bolts are hollow

Flanges are different sizes, the drive side is slightly larger, however the sizes are close enough that you can use the same length spokes on both sides.

THREE is the optimum number of pawls because 2 is too few and above 3 only 3 ever engage anyway. This is "the principal of
least constraints". In the same way that a table with two legs would fall over and one with 4 always wobbles slightly. 3 is the maximum number that can "balance" the load evenly.

All the drivers 10 tooth and above will use the same bearing arrangement. Nothing has been "compromised" to get down to this size so there is no point changing them for larger sizes.

No, the axle does NOT form the driver bearing race, infact you can see the inner race on the end of the axle in the 3rd photo.

UK (or any other country's) price will reflect the US price, ie. look at other products costing this kind of money in the US and how much they cost in the UK, it will be similar.

We dont have ANY firm prices on ANY of the parts yet so it is all just speculation at this stage anyway.

So it'll cost about the same as profile hubs maybe a bit more?

Hey,
Wouldnt it be a great idea to also release a separate hub shell with the vandal specs. I know a lot of people who still really want a vandal. Plus if it comes as just an upgrade it wont affect the standard hub price. And its pretty cool, just knowing your hub is so strong it should be used on f-ing Challengers or something.

hey g
That hub looks amazing, im so pleased you decided to design a g-sport cassette/ratchet.
just a couple questions please bud...
will my 21mm ti bolts fit?

will a gland 2 fit the same as it does on a homer?

i imagine it comes in 48h?

i run 36 - 13 on a homer, would you recommend 30 - 11 or 28 - 10 on chain tension?

is the flange the same size as a homer so i can run 182 swiss spokes on a 4 cross (48) with a hazard lite rim?

ps i don't mean to hassle you but PLEASE make it asap i need & want one no matter the cost.

thanks George

yours sincerely
steve-o smith

Will the be a post about "pledals" soon?

hey g i love the gland 3 ..... any thoughts on making a wider one to fill the bigger gap in the rear.... 3/8s able to accept better bearing for 9/8 tooth?

Hey Anonymous, don't know what you mean but I asked if the collars will change their look, not if it's drive side switchable. It was jeremy who asked that dumb question.

is it quiet?

looks rad....
good job g's..

Hey, how about some info on the new free coaster!

Any chance there will be a matching silver colour to the Marmoset?

You guy have out done yourselves again!

Now that i've seen this hub, i'm goin to wait. I have been wanting to switch to Left side drive and this looks like the PERFECT HUB!

Keep up the great work!

-steve

The hub uses a new size of bolt, so no, old Titanium bolts for Homer hubs will NOT fit.

GLAND II will fit.

27/10 would be a good replacement for 36/13, will give the same chainstay length.

The ratchet is pretty loud. If you want silent then wait for the freecoaster.

George French...are you god?
haha.
Absolute genius mate.
I'll be pre-ordering it from my local as soon as release dates are down.
Revolutionary Designs:
Stem: check
Cranks: check
Pegs: check
Pedals: check
Hubs: check
Rims: check

What's Next???

Good on ya mate.
Best of wishes for the production.

Keep it coming.
-Mitch

that was a brilliant metaphor. it just looked like the driver bearing race was fixed on the axle. yes that's the way i compared the price anyway. thanks for your response.

spoke info next please, make them wait a little longer for any free coaster information.

It looks like a pretty good hub but I'm a bit iffy about the needle bearings, my old Pi hub used to blow needle bearings out all the time, I never ran my chain tight. What makes this one stronger?

dont see any reason why a roller needle bearing couldnt be run straight onto the axle to allow for a smaller driver, its not like the axle is made from such a different material to a bearing race, as long as its greased well no damage would be done surly??

^^^^ "to allow for a smaller driver" by this you mean to allow for larger bearing in the driver right.

I've tried the majority of the cassettes out there and the one problem I've had with all of them was ghost pedaling (some more than others). Is there any aspect of the ratchets design that will make it less prone to ghost pedaling than the average cassette?

"Ghost pedaling" can be down to a number of factors.

Either the axle is slightly bent (it may spring back when removed from the hub though and only be bent when bolted up tight as it tries to conform to misaligned/bent dropouts) forcing one side of the driver too close to the liner of the hub. The stronger stiffer axle of the Ratchet hub makes this very very unlikely.

OR. the seal may be rubbing, possibly worsened by a bent axle; the Ratchet hub uses a custom made "low drag" lip seal, making this unlikely too.

OR. The pawls "wander" into the hub shell; the Ratchet hub uses a "fully retained" pawl system to prevent this.

I hope this helps answer the question.

will the 3/8" version simply be a different axle and bearings? what kind of weigh savings could one expect running 3/8" vs. 14mm? is the 3/8" version comparable to a traditional 14mm in strength and axle bending from a misaligned frame?

are there any plans for a freecoaster?

yes, there is a coaster in the works. look for the video of the Interbike interview with george. the coaster hub looks amazing!

g-sport at interbike video (freecoaster inside!)
http://www.go211.com/videos/1653

no i mean run a smaller OuterDiameter roller bearing, this will mean a smaller size casing for it. the smaller the diameter of it the smaller the driver can be, meaning you may be able to run even down to an 8tooth, which would address alot of peoples wants, it would just be a small change in the manufacture of the axle, so that the bearing has a race, and the collar has a shelf to prevent any fowling of the bearing.

any plans for a bsd type gaurd that fits my monkey and my rear profile . because if so this will without a doubt replace my profile

no i mean run a smaller OuterDiameter roller bearing, this will mean a smaller size casing for it. the smaller the diameter of it the smaller the driver can be, meaning you may be able to run even down to an 8tooth, which would address alot of peoples wants, it would just be a small change in the manufacture of the axle, so that the bearing has a race, and the collar has a shelf to prevent any fowling of the bearing.

please think about this. why do you want an 8 tooth driver? name 2 pro of it and I'll throw 6 cons at you.
gsport hubs are mean to last. not blow out bearing after 6 months or less maybe you should email khe they seem no the ball when it comes to below standard hub design.

Spot on George! I especialy like the way your design integrates RHD to LHD switching was implemented, just swap the pawls and their associated springs and flip the wheel around in yer drops outs, done. Everything else I see so far looks tops too. Thanks for such great products!

k dont care tell me about the gcoaster

any thoughts of volcano bolts for this hub?

haha
i was looking through the ask goerge section and i found this

12. Why dont you make a cassette hub?

A. I have looked long and hard at the idea of a cassette but so far I havent found a good enough reason to make one. Bear in mind that to keep the quality and strength of the Homer hubs a G-Sport cassette would probably cost around £200. At that price I probably wouldnt sell enough of them to cover the costs of tooling up.

With the iminent release of new higher quality 13 tooth freewheels in both left and right hand drive I decided that this cheap easily replaced solution was a better bet for most riders.

just thought it was abit funny

but im glad you decided to make one

will you be making one of these(

http://empirebmx.com/catalog/showdetail2.aspx?id=1093290&ret=catalog.aspx

)for this baby

calm down tony, no offence meant. i was just saying that could be a possible solution to what it seems alot of people want, i work in a bike shop, and the amount of people that come in asking for 8tooth is crazy, i dont run it myself, and dont plan to also i am not saying that its a good idea, engineering wise, and tolerances its stupid, there is no room on the cog for a chain to wrap around. the other thing is, i was sayin to use a smaller bearing, but with similar proportions to the existing one, the rollers wouldnt get much smaller if atall. that is all i was saying.

haha
you guys at g sport should hurry up and make it into production
this hub loooks amazing and im gonna buy it.
well.. bet there other people who want it out to

pleg date?

hi g

i love the new hub its soo sexy!!!!!!

what i want to know is,is this hub hub going to come in funky fresh colours? i myself like the coulours of the rainbow as i wear them proud as it represents who i am,so wat am saying can you do a limited colourway for the gay community of bmxers in the uk?

cheers and much love

the streetjudge
x

Word streetjudge, word.

well you have done it again im so impressed with all the g-sport product i have been followin you from day one and you never disapoint me the rachet hub will be goin on my bike as soon it is released in austraila it will complament the momoset hub up front

This is the most important question ever. How loud are they?

Colours may well be a possibility in the future, for launch we will probably just do black, but you can always break out the spray paint and get a bit creative.

We already make a hub guard to fit this (and most other hubs) it's called the GLANDIII.
BSD MAY decide to make a guard for this like the one they do for the Marmoset but you would need to ask Grant about that not me.

The comments I made in the past about not doing a cassette hub were very old (as you can tell by the reference to 13 tooth freewheels) and related to having to make it in small volumes here in the UK.
Now we can do things in greater numbers and using Taiwan companies who are already geared up for doing this kind of work things are much easier... I have also had some time to work on the design and offer something new.

PLEGs are STILL in development. We are making progress and I hope to be able to give a relatively firm release date later this year for sometime next year... but right now nothing is certain.

Rest assured when we have solid news we will post it.

I will try to get a further post up about some of the other new stuff later this week.

George

The Ratchet hub is pretty loud. It can be quietened down a little with grease and a few other things, but if you want silent then the coaster is going to be the way to go...

your going to be giving profile a run for there money with this hub............

Spring '08? Don't wanna wait that long to finish building my Sunday. I guess Monkey w/13T freewheel it is. F$@#%@#!

looks amazing, but would it not be better to be broached for an 8mm allen key instead of a 6mm?

looks good, i'v got a marmoset, its good, i hope this cassette lives up to it

can you get marmoset bolts in a less annoying size than 14

hey G
i run 36 - 13 on a homer, would you recommend 30 - 11 or 28 - 10 on chain tension?

is the flange the same size as a homer so i can run 182 swiss spokes on a 4 cross (48) with a hazard lite rim?

Yours sincerely
steve-o

The bolts are broached 6mm rather than 8mm to keep them in line with the 3/8" Marmoset/Monkey bolts. Also broaching the bigger 8mm hex would potentially cause issues with strength.

"team westwood" look back through the blog to the June post. New bolts with a 17mm head are available now in most countries, the UK should have them soonish.

Of those options; 30/11 will give the same chainstay length as 36/13. However I am running 27/10 which also gives the same chainstay length and is a really good gear for fast acceleration and dealing with the hills we have here.

If I stripped the anodized surface on this shell or any hub would it affect the strength of the aluminum and what polishing material should I use to polish the hub?

g
it used to be hard to get ur stuff in other countries
u sed above that most countries have the 17mm bolts and they should be in the uk soon... what gives. i thought u being an englishman would prioritise the uk. ok rant over.

in my little town of nuneaton theres 2 or 3 homers that have been passed through friends for the past 2 to 3 years each one of them is still running strong bearing in mind weve all learnt to grind on them and all we ever ride is street apart from the odd park now an then all still running as strong and smooth as the day they were bought so this hub has a lot to live up to and by the looks of it, it will

The UK distribution was a problem for quite a while, but we have finally made the switch to a new distributor (IMG) so once they have had a chance to get "up to speed" things should improve enormously.

Small parts like the spare bolts are unlikely to be a big priority for the new distributor, but if you drop them a line I am sure they will be able to let you know what the situation is.

Stripping JUST the anodising off the outside of any hub should not effect its strength. However, stripping the aluminium using chemical means may well attack ALL areas of the hub, including the bearing seats, and this could damage the hub.
If you strip the colour by simply polishing it away then you should do no harm. Use a very very fine abrasive to remove the anodising and then polish with polishing paste suitable for aluminium. You shoudl be aware that the polished surface will corrode and tarnish slightly if not treated afterwards... I am sure a quick google search will find you plenty of information on this subject.

Hell yea iv been hoping G-sport would make a cassette

only thing that gots me un easy is the 3 paw system

anyways i got some product idea's so contact me on my email since you guys dont have a myspace

I LOVE THIS!

Im definately getting this for my next hub,no contest against it. I love that driver system,being LHD and RHD hub and driver at the same time,Man that is perfect,you guys never cease to amaze me...

how much will they cost in england and when will they be here
looks like such a awesome hub
its about time you brought out a cassete though